Rolex Explorer II 16570: A Closer Look at the Evergreen

In the series “Exploring Evergreens,” Fretello watches delves into watches that have stood the test of time, becoming archetypes or even icons. Today, they focus on the Rolex Explorer ref. 16570, specifically in its black-dial execution. Lasting from 1989 to 2011, this model now falls under the neo-vintage category, presenting an opportunity to assess its enduring appeal.

Key Features and Variations:

1. Iterations: Over its two-decade existence, the Explorer II 16570 had variations, including the popular white-dial “Polar” alongside the black-dial version. While the Polar is often favored for its distinctiveness, the black dial has its proponents, offering a bit more character and depth.
2. In-Reference Updates: The watch underwent changes in tritium, lug holes, and end links. Early versions featured tritium, drilled lug holes, and folded end links, later transitioning to (Super-)LumiNova, non-drilled cases, and solid end links. The movement also received an update in 2007, incorporating a Parachrom hairspring.

Proportions and Design:

1. Timeless Proportions: The Explorer II 16570 boasts dimensions considered perfection by many: 40mm diameter, 47mm lug-to-lug, and 12.2mm thickness. These proportions contribute to its enduring appeal, especially when compared to the larger and bolder subsequent generation (ref. 216570).
2. Contemporary Design: The watch maintains a contemporary feel with refined, modern-looking dials featuring applied white gold indices. The flat sapphire crystal distinguishes it from earlier vintage models, marking the transition to a neo-vintage generation.
3. Subdued Sophistication: Unlike modern Rolex watches designed for noticeable visibility, the 16570 exudes a subdued sophistication. Its unassuming appearance appeals to those who appreciate a capable watch without flashy features.

Movement and Caliber:

1. Reliable Movement: Powered by the Rolex caliber 3185 (later updated to 3186 in 2007), the movement is known for reliability. Despite not being the latest caliber, its solid construction and ease of maintenance make it a practical choice for daily use.
2. Caliber 3285 in Modern Models: The current Explorer II (ref. 226570) features the caliber 3285, offering a 70-hour power reserve and Paraflex shock absorption. While improvements are present, calibers 3185 and 3186 remain highly capable.

Bracelet and Clasp:

1. Bracelet Design: The bracelet, while featuring solid end links, showcases a difference in development compared to modern Rolex bracelets. Hollow center links make it lighter, and the stamped clasp, while functional, lacks the refinement of contemporary options.
2. Neo-Vintage Clasp: The stamped clasp with micro-adjustment holes may appear less aesthetically pleasing to some but adds a neo-vintage charm. Despite differences, the bracelet and clasp perform well, offering comfort and durability.

Market Position:

1. Underappreciated Explorer: The Explorer II has often been perceived as an oddity in the Rolex catalog, trailing in market value compared to Submariners and GMT-Masters. The 16570, being the most affordable among Explorer IIs, offers a compelling choice for enthusiasts seeking a five-digit Rolex with modern construction.
2. Collectibility and Rarity: With a longer production period and higher numbers, the 16570 is less collectible, contributing to its affordability. The model often flies under the radar in the broader watch-buying public, remaining appreciated within enthusiast circles.

Closing Thoughts:
The Rolex Explorer II 16570, especially in black, emerges as an evergreen watch. Its proportions, design subtlety, and reliable movement contribute to its timeless appeal. While the bracelet and clasp may show signs of aging compared to modern counterparts, they remain functional and complement the overall character of the watch. As an underappreciated gem, the 16570 provides a gateway to the Rolex universe without the hype and complexities often associated with the brand’s contemporary models.